• Jill Crowe

How to Glaze Bathroom Tile and BathTubs with Rustoleum Tub and Tile Glaze

As we get our home ready to sell, our kids' bathroom definitely needed a refresh. I removed the peel and stick wallpaper from it (you can read more about that decision here). Then I followed up with Swiss Coffee by Benjamin Moore. I've used this color throughout this house. It's a creamy white that is both warm but fresh.

To glaze the tile, I'm using Rustoleum's Tub and Tile product. This is the fifth bathroom I've used this in. I love this product - it's a staple in most of our flipping. If you can find a house to buy that has bathroom tile that's in good shape, you can really transform it inexpensively with this product.

Materials You Need:

Rustoleum Tub and Tile. For most bathrooms, I'd suggest 2 cans of it. This bathroom, I only used one can and was able to stretch it to two coats. It could definitely use a third coat, so I wish I had a second can on hand. Just buy two. You won't regret having more than you need.

4" Foam roller and extra roller pads

paint tray

chip brushes


Optional but worth it: air purifier

drop cloth

painter's tape



Step One: Prep your tile.

You'll want to make sure that your tile is clean of any dirt, grime, or anything that will block it from adhering to the glaze. I give mine a good scrub down with Comet, rinse with a spray bottle, and then wipe with a microfiber cloth.

Sand the Tile:

Next, you'll want to lightly scuff up the tile. I've honestly skipped this step in the past, and it's been OK, but the box does recommend it. I would definitely recommend it if you're glazing your tub. For walls, they don't seem to get as much wear, so it's been fine in my experience not to. That being said, follow the box. :)

Wipe off the dust on the walls.

Put on your mask. Turn on your fan and air purifier. It's about to get stinky.

Open your base can and stir it. Then stir some more. Your can may look beige at first, but once you start stirring, it will start to be white. I'd stir for about 2 minutes. Then start stirring your activator. This one is much smaller, so it doesn't require as much stirring.

Pour your activator into the base. (Part A into Part B). This is the really important part. You'll want to stir this REALLY well. Part A - the Activator - is clear. If you see any clear resting on top of the base, then it's not incorporated well enough. You don't want to see any clear when you take out your paint stirrer or pour it into the paint tray. The glaze should look like white paint. Not runny. Somewhat thick. Just like paint for a wall.

I let mine sit for 15 minutes while I tape up the room.

Get your painter's tape out and tape off any faucets, walls, or the tub, if you're not glazing that. When you're done, your glaze will probably be ready. If you haven't already, open up any windows that you can - especially in your bathroom. I didn't have any windows for my latest bathroom, so I relied on opening windows upstairs, running a fan, and running my air purifier.

Pour your glaze into a small paint tray. I like to work with a half of the can at a time. I also put the lid back onto the can when I'm not using it. That helps to cut down on any unnecessary fumes.

Work your roller back and forth until the glaze sticks on without dripping.

Time to glaze! I like to start in the least noticeable spot of the bathroom, which is usually low and not near a toilet or a sink. More than likely, you'll have some drips on those first couple rolls. Just make sure to catch them with your roller so they don't dry onto the wall. Also, make sure your drop cloth is covering your floors, because it will splash and doesn't wipe up easily.

Roll it onto your walls just like you're painting with a roller. I find that the first coat is pretty opaque, but you can definitely tell that you'll need a second coat.

You may notice some bubbles forming on the wall. This is normal. The epoxy has a self-leveling feature to it, so the bubbles are apart of that property. They'll actually dissolve and level out the paint for you.

If you notice what I call spider webbing, where giant holes are appearing in the paint no matter how much you roll onto the wall, that's most likely caused by the activator not being mixed well enough into the base. I would pour your paint tray back into the container and stir again for a few minutes. Once it thickens up, try glazing that area again.

Just like painting a wall, you want to avoid "dry brushing" or going back over an area you just painted. It will pull off the glaze. So make sure you've got one bubbly coat on, and let it be. It should dry within an hour.

I like to go around my entire bathroom with the glaze and usually by the time I'm done, it's time to start on the second coat. This may be a good time to look around at any corners, trim, or areas around faucets to see if your roller missed any spots. I would go back with my chip brush or my painter's brush to get some small spaces. Again, making sure to not dry brush, you'll apply your second coat the same way you did the first.

Apply that second coat after your first has dried. I try to do my bathrooms all in one day since the area is already prepped. This bathroom took me about 2.5 hours to glaze, which really isn't that long when you consider the impact it has.

After you're finished glazing, you'll want to avoid getting the area wet for 3 days. I try to stretch that longer for tubs so that it has time to cure. It helps if you have another bathroom to use in the meantime.

I also let my fan and air purifier run in there for those three days.

I hope this tutorial helped! It may seem like a lot of work, but it really isn't that bad once you're prepped the space. It's more like painting on really fumes paint. If you can paint a wall, you can glaze.

Be sure to watch my YouTube tutorial, where eI show you step-by-step how I did my bathroom, what spider-webbing looks like, and how I prefer to tape off things.

Happy DIYing


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